Sunday, 2 January 2011

Corset homework for Miss Hearne - Costume Construction

Corsets

I have researched that in the 16th century, corsets were worn by many women. The corsets were mainly designed to make the waist narrower and to also turn the torso into the fashionable cylindrical shape. For women this most frequently emphasizes a curvy figure, by reducing the waist, and thereby exaggerating the bust and hips. However, in some periods, corsets have been worn to achieve a tubular straight shape, which involves minimizing the bust and hips. Men sometimes wore corsets too, they were normally worn to achieve slimming of the figure.








The corset has undergone many changes. The corset was originally known as stays in the early 16th century. I found out that in the past, a woman's corset was usually worn over a chemise, a sleeveless low-necked gown made of washable material (usually linen or cotton). It absorbed perspiration and kept the corset and the gown clean. In modern times, an undershirt or corset liner may be worn.


In research I discovered that an overbust corset encloses the torso which extends from under the arms to the hips.










Also, an underbust corset begins just under the breasts and extends   down the the hips.










Even though it is rare, some corsets extended over the hips and reached the knees.


There are other kinds of corsets as well such as a waist cincher. A waist cincher (sometimes referred to as a Waspie) is a belt worn around the waist to make the wearer's waist physically smaller, or to create the illusion of being smaller. It covers the waist area(from low on the ribs to just above the hips). A corset may also include garters to hold up stockings.





In my research I found that sometimes a corset cover is used to protect outer clothes from the corset and to smooth the lines of the corset. The original corset cover was worn under the corset to provide a layer between it and the body. Corsets were not worn next to the skin, possibly due to difficulties with laundering these items during the nineteenth century, as they had steel boning and metal eyelets which would rust. The corset cover would be in the form of a light chemise, made from cotton lawn or silk.


To immobilize and protect the torso, people with spinal problems such as scoliosis or with injuries may be fitted with a special form of corset. I found out that Andy Warhol for example was shot in 1968 and he unfortunately never recovered so wore a corset for the rest of his life.


Corsets were and are still usually designed for support, with freedom of body movement, an important consideration in their design. Present day corset-wearers usually tighten the corset just enough to reduce their waists by 2 inches to 4 inches; it is very difficult for a slender woman to achieve as much as 6 inches, although larger women can do so more easily.

No comments:

Post a Comment